Soetmelksvlei: Babylonstoren’s Best Kept Secret, Available to All
It’s incredibly exciting to discover a new local experience in the Cape Winelands, largely unknown even within Cape Town, and not only love it but also know that it will undoubtedly be adored by many of our clients.
Within the past two months, my family and I have visited Babylonstoren's newest creation, Soetmelkslvei, three times. Perhaps South Africa’s most iconic wine farm, Babylonstoren has long been a favorite for both international tourists and South Africans alike. Yet its ever-increasing popularity has resulted in mega crowds, a fairly foreign concept within the Winelands. If you are not staying at the estate’s hotel where you pay a hefty premium to be shielded from some (but not all) of the chaos, many would argue that Bablyonstoren has lost its charm and feels overly commercialized. Up until recently, I would have largely agreed with that assessment.
That is, however, until our Capetonian friends suggested we go check out Soetmelkslvei. I had never heard of it, and was surprised to see that it was part of Babylonstoren; apparently it opened only in mid 2024 without any announcements made to the tourism community. Unlike the rest of Babylonstoren, where there is no cap on daily visitors (though the purchase of an inexpensive day pass upon arrival or an annual membership is required for entry), visits to Soetmelkslvei must be pre-booked in advance, and there is a limit of 20 guests per arrival slot, which are run every 15 minutes. The cost is nominal by American standards - approximately $18 per adult, $6 per child and free for toddlers three and under. We booked per our friends’ instructions, still not exactly sure what to expect.
This Afrikaans name translates to “Sweet Milk Valley” in English, a nod to both the farm’s bustling cattle population as well as its idyllic setting roughly 15 minutes via a safari-styled open truck over the scenic hills of Babylonstoren’s primary grounds.
The ride in the 4x4 provides an adventure in and of itself, and each time we’ve gone, Donald and I have remarked how it feels reminiscent of Jurassic Park, with a headset guide serving up detailed information on the farm and its history in multiple languages.
Upon arrival, it’s remarkable how transported you really do feel; it’s as if you’ve stumbled upon this incredibly kept secret that takes you back into time to 1897. A brief introductory video provides historical context for what was happening at the turn of the century both around the world, and more specifically in South Africa.
From there, Soetmelkslvei is really yours to explore. Activities include farm tours, milking cows, taking ox cart rides, grinding flour at the hydraulic mill or getting hands-on with a cream and milk separation, to name a few. The farm has various historic buildings that you can explore at your own pace. The main manor house has been restored to showcase what a family home would’ve looked like in 1897, and it’s absolutely fascinating. Each time we go we remark how we’d love to have a home designed exactly in its fashion, with massively high ceilings and stunning original wood floors. The nearby gift shop has beautiful items, all with nods to traditional South African farm life, and most items are handmade by locals. We purchased the most gorgeous sheepskin slippers that are a quarter of the price of UGGs, and at least twice as dreamy and comfortable.
One building is devoted to carpentry and blacksmiths, and guests can actually participate in carving wood or seeing how nails are made. As an American, I find this part particularly notable as it’s hard to imagine something so interactive existing Stateside without rampant fear of lawsuits. The authenticity of the experience is so refreshing, as the carpenters and blacksmiths really encourage young children to get involved -responsibly, with supervision of course- and this is what makes the whole experience of Soetmelksvlei come alive.
The same holds true for the farm’s chickens whose coop is fully accessible to all guests, or the donkeys that sit alongside the fantastic outdoor playground. While Soetmelksvlei is for all ages (my mom was its number one fan), I can’t think of a better place for kids to come and be truly “free range” themselves.
In addition to the outdoor playground which also borders the restaurant (more on that below), there is a second play area that is quite arguably one of the best I’ve ever seen. One of the buildings boasts a life-sized two-floor dollhouse, complete with every accoutrement you could possibly imagine… even a trampoline! Our girls could stay here for hours, which they’ve done all three times we’ve visited. And to make the experience as pleasant as possible for the adults, just outside the play area are giant wine barrels, carved hollow with pillows inside. Donald has enjoyed a restorative nap during every single visit 🙂
Last but not least, Soetmelksvlei’s Old Stables restaurant is an absolute delight. The impeccable barn style decor was enough to win me over, but the food is ultimately the highlight of every visit. Old Stables has an Afrikaans-inspired buffet, where everything is farm to table and absolutely delicious. No proper authentic South African dining experience would be complete without some sort of braai, or barbeque, and sure enough Old Stables always has a delicious take on traditional fare like boerwors (sausage) or lamb stew. On Sundays, the braai is even more extensive and they offer a mouth watering bread pudding. The options for younger, pickier eaters are always fantastic too, though we find that our girls are more than happy with the standard buffet selection.
The restaurant is incredibly reasonably priced given the quality of the food and the unlimited nature of the buffet. Old Stables is significantly better in terms of quality than Babylonstoren’s Greenhouse Restaurant and in my opinion, a much better value. Because the nature of the booking system at Soetmelkslvei means that it’s never crowded, you don’t have to worry about waiting for a table, something that has become a systematic issue at Greenhouse, where reservations aren’t accepted. Bablyonstoren’s other restaurant, Babel, is excellent but nearly impossible to book if not weeks or months in advance. So if I were visiting Babylonstoren, I would consider heading to Soetmeksvlei if only for lunch at Old Stables!
The bottom line? I’m not entirely sure why Babylonstoren has not yet marketed Soetmelksvlei. Part of me thinks they are giving it a year or so to work out any potential kinks before introducing it to international tourists. But in my opinion, this is one of the most unique experiences currently available in the Cape Winelands and undoubtedly the most compelling one for families. Additionally, given the increasing crowds at Babylonstoren, I wholeheartedly think Soetmeklsvlei has become the best way of experiencing this iconic farm as a day visitor. As a hotel guest, you are entitled to far more exclusive activities, but it certainly does not come cheap.
My advice would be to get to Soetmelksvlei as quickly as possible and experience the magic for yourself. 🙂
Read more about Babylonstoren now!
